VIDEO: Balvenie v Glenfiddich – neighbours, so what makes them so different?
Dominic Roskrow travelled to Speyside to speak to the Balvenie Distillery about their whisky.
Dominic Roskrow travelled to Speyside to speak to the Balvenie Distillery about their whisky.
Stand and deliver
It’s not every day you get the chance to help create a quality Scotch blend or to watch a master craftsman at work – so when William Grant & Sons asked me to join Brian Kinsman to do just that it was too good a chance to miss.
I nearly did miss it though – my flight to Aberdeen was delayed nearly four hours and I arrived just in time for the blending session.
William Grant & Sons has found an old recipe that dates back to June 11, 1912 – exactly 100 years ago to the day – so the plan was to use as many of the original whiskies as possible to recreate the blend, which is called Stand Fast.
It was a truly fascination exercise. Using an array of grains from different distilleries, including three that are now closed, and including a heavily sherried and sulphury sample, we made a blend using a mix of just three malts – from Glenfiddich and from Balvenie, both of which Brian had prepared earlier and which included malt of various ages, as well as a very earthy and peaty Highland Park.
The blend contained about 40 per cent malt and had a distinctive Highland earthiness and a surprisingly feisty finish.
There wasn’t any chill-filtering a century ago but Brian and global brand ambassador Ludo Ducrocq came up with a novel way of removing the fatty particles which cause clouding – egg white. Over a few days the egg hoovers up the congeners and the resulting deposit can apparently be easily filtered out. I’m not too sure about this as I have an egg allergy, but it made for an unusual twist to proceedings nevertheless.
We finished just in time to get to the Highlander in Craigellachie to catch England play France. Ludo, who is French, recorded the match and didn’t want to know the score, so we spent dinner and several late night drinks hinting that England had won 6-0.
Boys will be boys…
Ready to rock and roll
Just two days left to go before Compass Box’s John Glaser and I attempt to conduct eight tastings in eight cities over 700 miles and 24 hours.
How do you train for a 24 hour trek like that? Not sleep in practice so you’re tired before you even start? Or try and sleep more so that you’re at maximum energy for the big day?
The William Grant trip and subsequent drinks in the bar meant that the second option was never on the cards.
We start at one minute past midnight on Thursday night/Friday morning at The Whisky Shop in Inverness and will be in Edinburgh for 4am. We’ll be joined by Whisky Shop head office heavyweights Andrew and David, who will be driving us.
The plan is to finish up in Brighton before midnight on Friday night. And it means that I’ll be listening to England beat Sweden in the back of a van in the company of an American and two Scots.
Oh Lordy mama!
A busman’s holiday…
My family has stayed at the lodges above Aberfeldy distillery three times now and every time it has been wonderful;. This visit, though, was the best of all. The weather was decidedly better than down south, we had great walks and discovered some great pubs. Perfect!
And then there was the inevitable trip to the distillery for a meeting on the last day. The family spent a happy hour at the Dewar’s World of Whisky, my 11 year old once again proved to be a far better blender than I am, and ambassador Stephen Marshall sent me off with an array of wonderful whisky including Aberfeldy 21 year old and Dewar’s Signature. A great way to end a great week.
Tally ho!
I returned home to find a gift from Diageo of all people – an unsolicited sample of both the Talisker 25-year-old and the Talisker 30-year-old. Both were enjoyed over the weekend – and both were wonderful.

Andy Simpson reports on the latest auction news:
“Firstly, following on from my comments last week, it’s interesting to see the effect a flooded market has on bottles of whisky. The Macallan Easter Elchies Cask release sold at auction last week for the equivalent of its original £145 retail cost. Granted, it was the full sized bottle without the mini but that’s a completely different ball park to the first recorded sale of £345.
This years release of Springbank 21 year old is also seeing some cooling in values with a sale of £195 following its early peak of £275.
Onto other auction prices:
Ardbeg
The Ardbeg 17 year old seems to be lifting back up a little with a sale of £190 being the highest recorded since October last year.
Another Ardbeg hit new highs last week with a bottle of ‘Almost There’ selling for just shy of £90. In 2008 these were changing hands at auction for £35 – £40.
Glenmorangie
Staying with LVMH, it’s good to see a new Glenmorangie record at £205 for the 1987 Managers Choice (bottled 2001). Might there be a more general upturn in older Glenmorangie prices? It would be nice to see.
Glenfiddich
Glenfiddich Snow Phoenix seems to have moved up to a consistent new trading level of around £100. That said, when there are a high number in the market at the same time, this bottle does experience significant price volatility and tends to see a downward spike to around £60.
Talisker
The final bottle this week is the supremely divine Talisker 1981 20 year old (the one with the gold map of Skye on the label). This just goes to show how important the quality of the whisky is when looking at what to buy. Back in 2008, believe it or not, you could pick these up for well under £100. One sold over the weekend for £450! From memory, these bottles retailed for £70 which represents an increase of 543%. I was going to drink my last bottle but I think I’ll hang into it now!
You know Richard Paterson’s in town as soon as you walk through the door. Party poppers go off, there are screams of delight and then Richard’s rumble rules the room.
the Nth Whisky Show Live, March 2, 2012
A shy nose, with chestnut, old fruit, damp. But the palate is surprisingly soft and subtle, with a big dose of aniseed, honey, melon, and no astringency at all. Incredibly dainty and polished, a dapper old man. The finish is medium long, but very soft, rounded and balanced with absolutely no negative notes, sharpness or astringency. Quite a work of art.
Clean barley, on the nose, with boiled sweets, model adhesive, clean barley, new office, lemon cleaner on polished wood. On the palate, there’s lemon and honey, clean sweet malt, some mint, traces of oak, some spice and tannins. The finish is medium, sweet, citrusy, quite zesty and spicy.